Sobao Pasiego

The sobao pasiego holds a protected geographical indication and comes from the Pas valleys, an area of scattered cabin farms with a distinctive transhumant dairy culture. The recipe is short and heavy on butter: equal or near-equal weights of butter, sugar, flour and egg, with lemon zest, anise or rum, beaten and baked in a folded rectangular paper case that becomes part of the presentation. The result is dense and moist rather than light, and it is eaten at breakfast or with coffee rather than as a dessert. Butter is what makes it, and the designation requires a high proportion; industrial versions using less produce something noticeably drier. Quesada pasiega, a baked cheesecake from the same valleys, is its usual companion.

What you actually see

• The paper case - a folded rectangular wrapper baked with the cake.
• The butter density - a heavy moist crumb rather than a light sponge.
• The Pas valleys - the cabin farm country the cake comes from.
• The quesada - a baked cheesecake from the same tradition.

When to go

Year-round; bakeries across Cantabria sell them daily and the Pas valley producers are the source. Fresh from a village bakery is a different thing from a supermarket packet.

Honest expectations

Supermarket versions are widely sold and considerably drier than the artisan ones. It is very rich, and one is enough. The protected designation covers Cantabria, so sobaos sold elsewhere may not qualify.

Nearby

Vega de Pas and Selaya in the Pas valleys are the traditional producers; Santander lies north.