San Martin de Fromista

San Martin was built in the eleventh century, traditionally dated from a bequest of 1066, as part of a monastery on the pilgrim route, and it is a compact and complete example of the Romanesque of the Camino: three naves, a transept, three apses, an octagonal lantern tower and two cylindrical turrets at the west end, with over three hundred carved corbels running under the eaves depicting animals, musicians, monsters and figures of considerable coarseness. It was deconsecrated and left ruinous in the nineteenth century, then restored between 1896 and 1904 in a thorough reconstruction that removed later additions and rebuilt what was lost, which is why it looks so clean and why specialists argue about how much is original.

What you actually see

• The carved corbels - over three hundred figures under the eaves.
• The complete Romanesque plan - three naves, transept and three apses.
• The lantern tower - an octagonal drum over the crossing.
• The 1900s restoration - a reconstruction that shaped how it now appears.

When to go

April to June and September to November; the Palencia plain is very hot in summer and cold in winter. Pilgrim traffic on the Camino peaks from May to September. Hours include a long midday break.

Honest expectations

The heavy restoration means much of what is visible is early twentieth century rather than medieval, a point the site acknowledges. The church is small and the visit takes under an hour. Fromista is a small town with limited services.

Nearby

The Camino Frances passes through; Carrion de los Condes and the Canal de Castilla are close.