Sacromonte

Sacromonte rises above the Darro valley east of the Albaicin, and its houses are cut into the soft hillside: whitewashed fronts with a chimney and a door, and rooms dug back into the rock behind, cool in summer and warm in winter. Roma families settled here from the sixteenth century after being pushed out of the city proper, and the quarter became the home of the zambra, a flamenco form that grew out of Roma wedding traditions and is performed in the cave rooms themselves. A flood in 1963 destroyed many caves and dispersed the population, and much of what operates now is aimed at visitors. The Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte preserves furnished caves and explains the way of life.

What you actually see

• The cave houses - whitewashed dwellings dug into the hillside.
• The zambra shows - flamenco performed in cave rooms.
• The Sacromonte museum - furnished caves and displays on the quarter's life.
• The Alhambra view - the palace seen from the hillside path.

When to go

Spring and autumn for walking the steep paths; shows run year-round in the evenings and need booking. Summer heat on the exposed hillside is severe, though the caves themselves stay cool.

Honest expectations

Most cave shows are tourist operations of variable quality, and prices are high for what is often a short performance with a drink. The walk up is steep and the paths are rough. Some caves are occupied homes and photographing them intrudes.

Nearby

The Albaicin adjoins to the west; the Alhambra faces the quarter across the Darro valley.