Ulleungdo Island

Ulleungdo lies about a hundred and thirty kilometres out in the East Sea, an extinct volcano rising straight from deep water, and it is unlike anywhere else in Korea: almost no flat land, villages wedged into the few coves, a road round the island cut into and tunnelled through cliffs, and forest running up to Seonginbong at 984 metres. Nari Basin, the old caldera floor, is the only level ground and grows the island's vegetables. The coastal walkways at Haengnam and Gwaneumdo, the Bongnae falls, the Jeodong seawalk and the observatory cable car are the standard circuit. Squid is the economy and the drying racks are everywhere. Getting there is the constraint: the crossing takes three to four hours and is exposed enough that sailings are cancelled regularly, sometimes for days, so anyone going should carry slack in their plans and expect to be stuck at either end.

What you actually see

• The cliff road - the route tunnelled round the island.
• Nari Basin - the caldera floor and its fields.
• The coastal walkways - boardwalks at Haengnam and Gwaneumdo.
• The squid racks - drying frames through the villages.

When to go

May to June and September to October for the calmest crossings. Winter sailings are frequently cancelled and the island can be cut off for days.

Honest expectations

Ferry cancellations are common and strand people at both ends - never plan a tight connection. The crossing is rough and seasickness is normal. Accommodation and food are limited and prices reflect the shipping.

Nearby

Dokdo tours run from the island when seas allow; Pohang and Gangneung are the mainland ports.