Ganghwa Hwamunseok

Hwamunseok are floor mats woven from wangol, a sedge grown on Ganghwa's flats, and what separates them from ordinary matting is that the pattern is not printed or applied - dyed sedge strands are worked into the weave itself as it is made, so the design exists through the thickness of the mat and appears on the face without a backing layer. The craft is done on a fixed frame with the weaver picking strands by hand, and a large patterned mat is weeks of work. Ganghwa has been the centre since the Goryeo court moved to the island in the thirteenth century, and the mats were tribute and export goods. A craft hall on the island demonstrates the weaving, shows historical pieces and sells current work; short workshops make a coaster or small mat. It combines with the island's other draws - the dolmens, the fortifications along the coast, Jeondeungsa temple.

What you actually see

• The pattern in the weave - dyed sedge worked in, not printed on.
• The hand picking - strand-by-strand work on a fixed frame.
• The craft hall - demonstrations, historical mats and current work.
• The short workshops - a coaster or small mat to take away.

When to go

April to June and September to November. Weekdays are when weavers are usually at work. Ganghwa is a long bus ride from Seoul - allow most of a day if combining with the island's other sites.

Honest expectations

The craft hall is modest and demonstrations depend on who is working that day. A full patterned mat is expensive for good reason. Signage in English is limited.

Nearby

The Ganghwa dolmen site, Jeondeungsa and the coastal fortifications are on the island.