Busan and Gamcheon Culture Village

Busan is South Korea's second city and its vibrant, laid-back coastal capital, a lively port ringed by beaches, mountains and the sea. Its highlights include the huge Jagalchi fish market, the beaches of Haeundae, the seaside Haedong Yonggungsa temple, and above all Gamcheon Culture Village, a hillside former shantytown transformed into a beloved maze of brightly painted houses, art and murals tumbling in colourful tiers down to the sea.

What you actually see

• Gamcheon Culture Village - the tumbling, rainbow-coloured hillside houses.
• Haeundae Beach - the city's famous beach.
• Jagalchi fish market - the huge, bustling seafood market.
• Haedong Yonggungsa - the temple perched by the crashing sea.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the mildest weather; summer brings warm beach days but also crowds and the odd typhoon. The city hosts a famous international film festival in autumn. It is an easy, fast train ride from Seoul or Gyeongju.

Honest expectations

Gamcheon is a real residential neighbourhood as well as an attraction, so visitors are asked to keep quiet and respect the people who live there; it gets very crowded and steep. Busan is spread out, so the metro and some travel are needed to link the highlights. It is more about atmosphere, sea and food than blockbuster monuments.

Nearby

Gyeongju is a short train ride north; the coast and islands spread around Busan.