Andong Jjimdak Alley

Jjimdak is chicken braised in soy sauce with potato, carrot, onion, dangmyeon glass noodles and dried chilli, served in a wide shallow platter, and this alley in Andong's old market is where the modern version was popularised in the 1980s. There are a dozen or so restaurants along it, all doing essentially the same dish, and the local account is that they developed it in response to fried chicken chains arriving - so the tradition is more recent than the name suggests. Portions are large: a small is generally enough for two to three people and the glass noodles soak up most of the sauce. It is sweet and savoury rather than fiery, though heat levels can be requested. The alley is unglamorous, the restaurants are plain, and there is little to choose between them. Andong is otherwise a city of Confucian heritage, mask dance and soju, and this is its everyday contribution.

What to look for

• The wide platters - chicken, vegetables and glass noodles in soy.
• The market alley - a dozen near-identical restaurants in a row.
• The 1980s origin - a recent dish despite the traditional framing.
• The heat options - mild by default, spicier on request.

When to go

Any time; lunch and dinner both work. It gets busy at weekends when Andong fills with visitors from the heritage sites.

Before you go

Portions are very large and hard to finish for one or two people. The restaurants are basic and the alley is not attractive. Little English, though pointing at the picture menu works.

Nearby

Andong's old market surrounds it; Hahoe village, Dosan Seowon and Woryeonggyo are outside the city.