Tembe Elephant Park

Tembe was proclaimed in 1983 to protect elephants that moved back and forth across the Mozambique border and were being shot on both sides during the conflict years. The herd that settled here retained genetics for very large tusks, and the park became known for big tuskers - bulls carrying ivory of a size that has been hunted out of most of the continent, with individuals like Isilo becoming known by name. The habitat is unusual too: sand forest, a dry closed-canopy woodland on ancient dunes, found only in this corner of southern Africa and holding species that live nowhere else, including the suni, a tiny antelope. Roads inside are deep sand and 4x4 only, so most visitors are driven on guided vehicles. There is a hide at a waterhole where elephants come in close, and the park is run in partnership with the Tembe community, which owns the land.

What you actually see

• The big tuskers - elephants carrying ivory of a size now rare across Africa.
• The sand forest - a closed-canopy dune woodland found only in this region.
• The suni - a tiny antelope restricted to this habitat.
• The community ownership - a park run in partnership with the Tembe people who own it.

When to go

May to September. Two days. Summer is hot, humid and carries malaria risk.

Honest expectations

Roads are deep sand and genuinely need 4x4 - most people take the guided drives. Big tuskers are old animals and sightings are not guaranteed. Malaria prophylaxis is worth discussing with a doctor for this area. Accommodation is limited to one lodge and a camp.

Nearby

Ndumo is west; Kosi Bay and the Maputaland coast are east.