Port St Johns

The Mzimvubu is the largest river on this coast and it reaches the sea through a gap between two forested cliffs, called the Gates of St John, rising around 300 metres on either side - the drive in descends between them, which is the town's best moment. Port St Johns is humid and green, with mangroves along the river, banana and palm growing in gardens, and a run-down colonial centre that has been slowly reclaimed by forest and paint. Three beaches lie around the mouth: Second Beach is the swimming one, Third Beach quieter. The town's reputation is complicated - it has an unusually high rate of shark incidents at Second Beach, several fatal, and lifesavers and signage reflect that. Silaka Nature Reserve, minutes away, has a small coastal patch with zebra and a rock pool beach.

What you actually see

• The Gates of St John - forested cliffs about 300 metres high flanking the river mouth.
• The subtropical feel - mangroves, palms and humidity unusual this far south.
• The three beaches - Second for swimming, Third quieter, First at the river.
• Silaka reserve - a small coastal reserve with zebra and rock pools nearby.

When to go

April to June and September to November. Two days. Summer is hot, humid and wet.

Honest expectations

Second Beach has a serious record of shark attacks - swim only where and when lifesavers say, and many locals do not swim there at all. The town has visible poverty and petty crime; take normal care. Roads in are winding and slow. Services are limited.

Nearby

Silaka reserve is minutes south; Mkambati and Magwa Falls are north.