The Ovčar-Kablar Gorge

Between the mountains of Ovčar and Kablar the West Morava has cut a gorge and then meandered inside it, doubling back on itself in loops so pronounced that from the viewpoint at Kablar the river appears to be tied in knots. What makes the gorge unusual is what is scattered along its sides: around a dozen small monasteries, founded from the medieval period onwards and rebuilt many times, so many in such a short stretch that the area has long been called the Serbian Mount Athos. Most are modest single-nave churches with a few monks or nuns, reached by side roads and paths, and visitors are received quietly. Marked trails climb both mountains to viewpoints over the meanders, and a spa with thermal water sits at the eastern end.

What you actually see

• The meanders from Kablar - the viewpoint over the river's tight loops.
• The monasteries - around a dozen small foundations along the gorge.
• The walking trails - marked routes up both mountains.
• The thermal spa - Ovčar Banja at the eastern end of the gorge.

When to go

April to October for walking, with autumn colour in the gorge especially good; the viewpoint is best in morning light or when mist sits in the meanders. Monasteries are open daily but observe services, and modest dress is expected.

Honest expectations

The famous viewpoint requires a walk or a drive up a rough track, and the meander view depends on clear weather. The monasteries are small and, individually, modest; their interest is the concentration rather than any single building, and several are working communities where visitors should be brief and quiet. Public transport in the gorge is minimal.

Nearby

Guča is close, as is Čačak; Zlatibor lies to the southwest.