Kafountine

Kafountine sits on the Atlantic north of the Casamance river, and two things define it: the fishing port, where hundreds of pirogues land and an enormous smoking and drying operation processes the catch for export across West Africa, and the drumming, which has drawn students and musicians for decades to learn with Diola and Mandinka teachers. The beach runs for kilometres, campements are scattered along it, and the pace is slow.

What you actually see

• The fishing port - hundreds of pirogues landing and a large smoking and drying yard.
• The drum schools - long-established teaching with Diola and Mandinka masters.
• The beach - a long Atlantic shore backed by palms and campements.
• The bolongs - mangrove channels behind the village, worked by pirogue.

When to go

November to May is the dry season and the busiest for both fishing and visitors. The rains from June are heavy and many campements close. The port works year-round.

Honest expectations

Getting there involves the ferry to Ziguinchor and a long road, or a longer route through the Gambia. The fish-smoking yard is pungent and the smoke carries. Drumming courses vary a lot in quality and are best arranged on recommendation.

Nearby

Abene is a few kilometres north, and the Gambian border is close.