Mogoșoaia Palace

Constantin Brâncoveanu built Mogoșoaia in 1698, and it is the clearest surviving statement of the architectural style that carries his name: a fusion of Venetian, Ottoman and local traditions, with a loggia of carved stone columns on the lake side, deep eaves, and ornament that is Italianate in its detail and entirely Wallachian in its arrangement. The estate passed through the Bibescu family, and in the twentieth century Martha Bibescu restored it and made it a meeting place for European society; her presence is still felt in the interiors and the guest house. The grounds run down to the lake and include a chapel, an ice house, a watchtower and the family burial chapel, and the park is a favourite Sunday walk for Bucharest families. The palace hosts exhibitions and concerts, and the whole ensemble makes the easiest half-day escape from the capital.

History

Constantin Brâncoveanu built the palace in 1698-1702 on land named after the widow of the boyar Mogoș. After his execution in 1714 it became an inn, until Ștefan Cantacuzino bought it back for the family; it later passed to the Bibescu family, and Princess Martha Bibesco spent her own fortune rebuilding it, making it a meeting place of international society in the late 1920s and 1930s. Prince George Bibesco was buried in 1941 in the small white church of 1688 on the grounds (Wikipedia, Mogoșoaia Palace).

What's there

• The lakeside loggia - the carved stone gallery that defines the Brâncovenesc style.
• The interiors - restored rooms and exhibitions on the Bibescu period.
• The park and lake - lawns, old trees and a shoreline walk.
• Estate buildings - chapel, ice house, watchtower and gatehouse.

When to go

Spring to autumn for the park, which is much of the appeal; summer weekends are busy with picnicking families. The palace holds concerts and craft fairs through the season. Winter is quiet and the park is bleak but the building looks well against snow.

Practical notes

The interiors are partly empty or given over to temporary exhibitions, so the visit is more architectural than furnished. Restoration work rotates around the building and sections close. The lakeside can be litter-strewn after busy weekends. Public transport from Bucharest is slow; a car or taxi is easier.

Nearby

Snagov monastery is north; central Bucharest is half an hour southeast.

Key facts