Puerto Rican Salsa

Salsa was assembled in New York in the 1960s and 1970s out of Cuban son and Puerto Rican bomba and plena, and it was largely Puerto Rican musicians who built it, then brought it home. The island produced an extraordinary run of them, from the Fania era through Héctor Lavoe and Ismael Rivera to Willie Colón's collaborations, and the music remains part of daily life rather than a heritage act. Dancers here favour a distinct timing, stepping on the second beat rather than the first, and the difference between that and the New York and Los Angeles styles is argued about in every dance school on earth. Classes and social nights are easy to find in San Juan.

What you actually see

• Social dance nights - the regular socials where locals actually dance.
• The on-two timing - the distinct island count that shapes the style.
• Live bands - full horn sections rather than recorded music.
• Beginner classes - widely available and the sensible way in.

When to go

Year-round, with the most reliable social nights midweek and at weekends in San Juan. The Heineken Jazzfest and other festivals bring larger salsa acts at various points in the year. Nights start late by most visitors' standards, rarely before ten.

Honest expectations

The good social nights are in ordinary neighbourhood venues rather than hotel bars, and hotel salsa shows are a thin imitation. Floors are crowded and the standard is high, which intimidates beginners; take a class first. Nights run very late. Venues change and close often, so ask locally rather than relying on old listings.

Nearby

Santurce and Río Piedras have the dance venues; Old San Juan has the tourist-facing ones.