Jemaa el-Fnaa

Jemaa el-Fnaa is the theatrical heart of Marrakech, a great open square at the edge of the medina that transforms as the sun sets. By day a place of orange-juice carts and snake charmers, by night it erupts into a swirling spectacle of smoking food stalls, storytellers, musicians, dancers and healers, a centuries-old living tradition recognised by UNESCO as a masterpiece of intangible heritage.

What you actually see

• The night food stalls - the smoking rows of grills and food carts.
• The performers - the storytellers, musicians and dancers.
• The snake charmers and healers - the daytime spectacle of the square.
• The rooftop view - the square seen from a terrace cafe at dusk.

When to go

Spring and autumn for pleasant weather; the square is at its most magical at dusk and after dark, when it comes fully alive. A rooftop terrace cafe gives a wonderful overview as the lights and smoke rise.

Honest expectations

It is a spectacle but also a tourist magnet, so the performers, snake charmers and henna artists expect payment, often aggressively, for photos or attention; agree terms first. The food stalls are atmospheric but choose busy ones for freshness. A rooftop view offers respite from the crush.

Nearby

The souks and palaces of the medina surround it; the Koutoubia minaret is alongside.