Piñones

Just past the airport the coast road narrows and runs between the sea and a mangrove forest, and along it stand rows of open wooden kiosks that have been frying the same things for decades: alcapurrias of grated green banana and yautía stuffed with crab or beef, bacalaítos, flat salt cod fritters the size of a plate, pionono, and empanadillas, all cooked over charcoal and eaten standing up. This is Loíza, the town with the deepest West African roots on the island, and the food, like the bomba drumming, comes from that. Behind the kiosks the Piñones forest protects the largest mangrove stand in Puerto Rico, with a cycle path running through it.

What you actually see

• Alcapurrias and bacalaítos - the fritters the road is known for.
• The charcoal kiosks - open wooden stands along the coast road.
• The mangrove forest - the island's largest, directly behind.
• The cycle path - a paved boardwalk route through the mangroves.

When to go

Year-round. Weekends are when the road is fullest and the music is loudest, with the busiest stretch on a Sunday afternoon; weekdays are calm and many kiosks still open. The mangrove path is best early before the heat.

Honest expectations

It is a roadside eating strip, not a scenic destination, and the road is narrow with parking on the verge and traffic passing close. Weekend crowds and loud music are the norm. The frying is heavy and hygiene varies, so pick busy stands with high turnover. The beaches along here have strong currents and no lifeguards.

Nearby

Loíza town and its July festival are further east; Isla Verde is twenty minutes west.