Tram 28

The 28 runs from Martim Moniz through Graça, Alfama, past the cathedral, across the Baixa, up through Chiado and Bairro Alto and out to Campo de Ourique, on streets so narrow and steep that only the Remodelado cars of the 1930s - short, wooden-bodied, with a hand brake the driver hauls on the descents - can take them. It is a normal public transport line that people who live along it need, and it has become one of the most photographed things in the city, which is the problem: the cars fill at Martim Moniz with visitors, residents cannot get on, and it is the single worst route in Portugal for pickpocketing, with police warnings posted at the stops. Boarding at Campo de Ourique and riding in the other direction usually gets a seat. Line 12 covers part of the same ground with fewer people.

What you actually see

• The 1930s cars - short wooden Remodelado trams with hand-hauled brakes.
• The route - Graça, Alfama, the cathedral, Chiado and Campo de Ourique.
• The gradients - streets too steep and narrow for any modern vehicle.
• The working line - a service residents depend on, not a heritage attraction.

When to go

Year-round. One hour end to end. Board early morning or from the Campo de Ourique end for a seat; midday from Martim Moniz means standing in a crush.

Honest expectations

Pickpocketing on this line is severe and constant - carry nothing in an outer pocket or an open bag. Queues at Martim Moniz can be very long. It is public transport that residents need and cannot board. Standing on the descents is uncomfortable.

Nearby

The route passes the cathedral, Graça and Chiado; the 12 covers a shorter loop.