Termas de São Pedro do Sul

The springs at São Pedro do Sul rise at around sixty-eight degrees, sulphurous and sodium-rich, and they have been used continuously since the Romans built baths here in the first century - remains of that complex survive beside the modern spa and can be visited. Afonso Henriques, the first king, came in 1169 to treat a leg broken at Badajoz, stayed some months, and the building where he lodged is still called the Balneário Rainha Dona Amélia after a later royal patron. It is now the busiest thermal spa in Portugal by treatment numbers, running as a medical facility as much as a leisure one - programmes for respiratory and rheumatic complaints prescribed and supervised by doctors, alongside pools and wellness services for casual visitors. The valley around has hotels, walking routes and the Serra da Arada. Any health claims here are for clinicians, not travel pages.

What you actually see

• The Roman baths - first-century remains beside the working spa.
• The royal connection - Afonso Henriques's stay in 1169 after breaking a leg.
• The scale - Portugal's busiest thermal spa by treatment numbers.
• The two sides - prescribed medical programmes alongside casual pools.

When to go

April to October is the main season, though the spa runs year-round. A day for pools; medical programmes run one to two weeks.

Honest expectations

Claims about what the water treats are matters for a doctor and clinical evidence, not for a travel description - treat them accordingly. The main clientele is older and there for prescribed treatment, which sets the atmosphere. Casual pool access is a small part of the operation. The town itself is quiet.

Nearby

Viseu is east; the Serra da Arada and the Vouga valley are around.