Feira de São Mateus

The Feira Franca de São Mateus was granted by charter in 1392 and has run at Viseu since, which is the basis for the claim that it is the oldest fair still operating in the Iberian peninsula. It occupies the Campo de Viriato beside the city centre for roughly six weeks from early August into September, and it is not a heritage reenactment but a working fair that has kept adapting: a large section of stalls selling ceramics, ironwork, basketry, textiles and food from across the country, a substantial funfair, restaurants and tasqueiras run by associations, and a concert programme every night that books major Portuguese and international acts, which is what fills it. Around a million visits are recorded across the run. It is regional in a way that matters - people from across the Beiras come, and it is the social event of the summer.

What you actually see

• The 1392 charter - a fair running continuously since the fourteenth century.
• The craft stalls - ceramics, ironwork and basketry from across Portugal.
• The concert programme - major acts every night through the six weeks.
• The regional draw - people coming from across the Beiras for the summer's main event.

When to go

Early August to mid September, over about six weeks. An evening - the fair runs from late afternoon into the night. Concert nights are busiest.

Honest expectations

It is a modern fair with a medieval charter, not a historical event - visitors expecting reenactment will be surprised. Ticketed on most nights, with higher prices for big concerts. Very crowded and loud. Viseu accommodation fills on concert weekends.

Nearby

Viseu's cathedral square and Grão Vasco museum are in the centre; the Dão wine country surrounds the city.