Pico do Arieiro

A road runs all the way to Pico do Arieiro, which is unusual for a peak of this height and explains the sunrise crowds. At just over eighteen hundred metres the summit often sits above the cloud layer, with the volcanic ridges of central Madeira breaking through it. From the car park the PR1 trail sets off along the crest toward Pico Ruivo, the island's highest point, on a path of cut steps, exposed ledges and unlit tunnels that need a torch even at midday. It is a serious walk, with long climbs in both directions and drops beside the path. Most people go out to the first viewpoints and turn back there.

What you actually see

• The cloud layer - ridges and peaks standing above a level sea of cloud.
• The PR1 ridge trail - cut steps, ledges and tunnels toward Pico Ruivo.
• The tunnels - unlit rock passages that need a torch at any hour.
• Sunrise from the summit - the reason the car park fills before dawn.

When to go

April to October gives the best odds of a clear ridge, though cloud can arrive within minutes at any time of year. Sunrise is the classic visit and the car park fills well before first light. Check trail status before setting out, since sections close after rain or rockfall. Winter brings ice and occasional snow at this height.

Honest expectations

Sunrise here is a crowd scene, with cars parked along the road and phones held over the railing. Temperatures at the top run far below Funchal and the wind cuts through light clothing. The ridge trail is demanding, with exposure that unsettles many walkers, and it closes often. On cloudy days you drive an hour for grey.

Nearby

Pico Ruivo, the Ribeiro Frio laurel forest and the Santana north coast.