Igreja de São Roque

São Roque was the Jesuits' church in Lisbon, finished in the 1580s, and its facade is deliberately austere - the order's plain exterior convention - while the inside is one of the richest baroque interiors in the country, with a painted wooden ceiling that survived 1755 and a series of gilded side chapels. The extraordinary one is the Capela de São João Baptista. Commissioned by João V in 1742, it was designed and built in Rome from lapis lazuli, amethyst, alabaster, agate, porphyry, gilt bronze and mosaics that imitate paintings so precisely that visitors mistake them for canvas, consecrated by the Pope, then dismantled, shipped to Lisbon in three vessels and reassembled here. It was reportedly the most expensive chapel in Europe when built. The adjoining museum holds the vestments and silver made for it.

History

In 1505 plague struck Lisbon, the site outside the walls became a cemetery for its victims, and King Manuel I sent to Venice for a relic of Saint Roch; a shrine to hold it was begun on 24 March 1506 and dedicated on 25 February 1515. The Jesuits came to Lisbon in 1540 at the invitation of John III and took over the site, and the first stone of their church was laid in 1555 before the design was enlarged in 1565 (Wikipedia, Igreja de São Roque).

What's there

• The São João Baptista chapel - built in Rome from precious stone, shipped and reassembled.
• The mosaics - stone work imitating painting closely enough to fool the eye.
• The painted ceiling - a wooden trompe-l'œil vault that survived the 1755 earthquake.
• The plain facade - Jesuit austerity outside, extreme richness within.

When to go

Year-round. One hour including the museum. Mornings are quieter; the church closes over lunch on some days.

Things to know

The interior is dim and the chapel is best seen with its lighting on, which is not constant. Photography without flash only, and it is restricted at times. Services close the church. The museum is a separate ticket from the free nave.

Nearby

The Glória funicular and São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint are up the street; Chiado is below.

Key facts