Great Masurian Lakes

The Masurian lakes are what the last glaciation left behind: hundreds of basins of open water, the biggest of them linked by canals into a single navigable system that runs for about a hundred kilometres. Sniardwy is the largest lake in Poland and Mamry is not far behind, both wide enough that the far shore is a low green line. The culture here is boats rather than beaches. Gizycko, Mikolajki and Wegorzewo are essentially marina towns, and in summer the water is busy with charter yachts, motor cruisers and kayaks. Away from the main channels there are quiet reed edged bays, forest shoreline and a lot of birds.

What you actually see

• Lake Sniardwy - the largest lake in the country, shallow, wide and capable of getting rough quickly.
• The connecting canals - nineteenth century cuts and locks that let a small boat cross the whole system.
• Gizycko's rotating bridge - a hand operated swing bridge over the Luczanski Canal that still turns for passing boats.
• Mikolajki waterfront - the busiest marina town on the system and the usual base for a first charter.

When to go

The sailing season runs from May to late September, with July and August by far the busiest and most expensive weeks. June and the first half of September have warm days, working services and far less traffic on the water. Book charters months ahead for peak weeks. Weekends are noticeably worse than weekdays for both moorings and road traffic.

Honest expectations

In August the popular marinas fill by mid afternoon and the towns feel like a single continuous holiday crowd. The lakes are shallow, so wind builds short steep waves fast and inexperienced crews get caught out. Mosquitoes at dusk are relentless near reeds, motorboat noise carries across the water, and swimming spots with clean access are fewer than the brochures suggest.

Nearby

The forests and smaller lakes of Pisz and Piska Forest lie south, and Wigry and the Suwalki uplands are two hours east.