Vigan

Vigan, on the northwest coast of Luzon, is the best-preserved Spanish colonial town in Asia, a UNESCO gem that survived the wars intact. Its atmospheric heart, Calle Crisologo, is a cobbled street lined with grand old merchant mansions of brick, wood and capiz-shell windows, blending Spanish, Chinese and Filipino styles. Horse-drawn kalesa carriages still clatter through, and by night, lit by lanterns, it feels like a step back in time.

History

Before the Spanish, Vigan was a coastal trading post visited by Austronesian, Arab, Indian, Chinese and above all Japanese traders, who sailed in by the Mestizo River that once made it an island; its name comes from the Ilocano for the place where the giant taro, biga, grows. Juan de Salcedo marched north from Manila on 20 May 1572 and reached Vigan on 13 June, founding Villa Fernandina in honour of Prince Ferdinand, the son of Philip II, and in 1574 he returned with soldiers and Augustinian missionaries, making it the capital of his encomienda over the old province of Ilocos. A report of 1591 describes Spanish settlers, a priest and an alcalde mayor there, and as the seat of the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia moved to the town it became Ciudad Fernandina de Vigan. It is one of the few Spanish colonial towns in the Philippines whose old buildings are largely intact, and a World Heritage Site (Wikipedia, Vigan).

What to look for

• Calle Crisologo - the cobbled street of grand colonial mansions.
• The kalesa rides - the horse-drawn carriages through the old town.
• The old mansions - the ancestral houses, some open as museums.
• The cathedral and plaza - the colonial church and square.

When to go

December to May, the dry season, for the best weather; the cooler months are most pleasant. Calle Crisologo is especially atmospheric in the early morning before the crowds and, lit by lanterns, in the evening.

Good to know

It is a long journey from Manila, an overnight bus or a flight and drive, so it takes commitment to reach. The main street is touristy, lined with souvenir shops, and can be busy with domestic tourists; early morning and evening are the most atmospheric. It is small, seen in a day, but a genuine and rare colonial survivor.

Nearby

The dunes of Ilocos and the Spanish churches of the region are nearby.

Key facts