Saud Beach

Saud is the beach that gave Pagudpud its reputation: a wide crescent of fine white sand running for a couple of kilometres along the northern Ilocos coast, backed by coconut palms and a low-rise line of resorts and homestays that never grew into a strip. The water is the draw - shallow, clear and unusually calm for a coast facing open sea, because the bay's shape and the reef beyond take the swell out of it, which makes it one of the better swimming beaches in northern Luzon. Boats run to nearby coves and the Bantay Abot cave, kite and windsurfers arrive with the amihan winds from December, and horses are led along the sand at sunset. The wider area supplies the rest of a stay: Kabigan Falls in the hills behind, the Blue Lagoon at Maira-ira around the point, the Patapat viaduct curving along the cliffs, and the wind farm turbines standing over Bangui bay.

What you actually see

• The white crescent - two kilometres of fine sand and palms.
• The calm shallows - clear swimming water most of the year.
• The sunset horses - the beach's evening ritual.
• The coast beyond - Blue Lagoon, Bantay Abot and the viaduct.

When to go

November to May for dry weather and calm sea; December to February brings the cool amihan wind and the surf and kite crowd. The typhoon months from July to October can close the coast entirely.

Honest expectations

Pagudpud is far - two hours from Laoag, ten-plus from Manila overland. Resorts are simple to mid-range; nightlife is a beach bar. The beach can pick up seaweed and driftwood after storms.

Nearby

Blue Lagoon at Maira-ira, Kabigan Falls and the Bangui wind farm are all within half an hour.