Paete Woodcarving

Paete sits on the eastern shore of Laguna de Bay under the Sierra Madre, and it has been carving wood for centuries - the town's name is generally traced to paet, the Tagalog word for chisel, and it was declared the country's carving capital by proclamation in 2005. Workshops line the streets, and what comes out of them ranges from santos and church images commissioned by parishes across the country, through furniture and architectural woodwork, to the small carved figures and relief panels sold to visitors. The town's second craft is taka: papier-mâché figures moulded over carved wooden forms and hand-painted, most famously the brightly coloured horses that appear in souvenir shops nationwide. Carvers work with the door open and are generally happy for people to watch. There is also a painting tradition here, and the church of Santiago Apóstol holds old murals worth the stop.

What you actually see

• The carving workshops - santos, furniture and panels in progress.
• The taka making - papier-mâché moulded over wooden forms.
• The church murals - old painting in Santiago Apóstol.
• The lakeside town - Laguna de Bay and the Sierra Madre behind.

When to go

November to May for dry travel. Weekday working hours to see the workshops in use - many close on Sundays.

Honest expectations

These are working shops, not showrooms - watch quietly, ask before photographing, and expect that browsing implies possible buying. Paete is three hours from Manila on congested roads.

Nearby

Pakil, Pangil and the Laguna lakeshore towns are along the same road; Pagsanjan and Lumban are south.