Huaconada de Mito

On the first three days of January the huacones appear in Mito: men in carved wooden masks with enormous hooked noses and severe expressions, wearing dark cloaks and carrying a tronador, a plaited leather whip, and for those days they hold a form of authority in the village - dancing to a set repertoire, correcting and sanctioning conduct, embodying a moral order that predates the Spanish. There are two forms, the huacones viejos with the old carved masks and restrained steps, and the modernos in brighter costume. The dance is understood to descend from a pre-Hispanic institution of community judgement, and UNESCO inscribed it as intangible cultural heritage in 2010. The role passes within families and the masks are inherited. It is a village event that visitors may watch; it is not staged for them, and the huacones' whips are real.

What to look for

• The masks - carved wooden faces with long hooked noses, some inherited for generations.
• The tronador - the plaited whip carried as a mark of authority.
• The two forms - huacones viejos and modernos with different dress and step.
• The role - a dance form descending from pre-Hispanic community judgement.

When to go

1 to 3 January every year. One to three days. Mito is a short colectivo ride from Concepción or Huancayo.

Practical notes

The whips are used and bystanders can be caught - keep your distance and follow local cues. Facilities in Mito are minimal and accommodation is in Huancayo or Concepción. Heavy drinking accompanies the festival. Photograph respectfully; this is not a performance.

Nearby

Concepción and the Ocopa convent are close; Huancayo is south.