Hatun Machay

Hatun Machay is an eroded field of ignimbrite - welded volcanic ash - weathered into towers, fins and mushroom caps across a plateau at about 4,300 metres, and it is known for two things at once. Climbers call it the best sport crag in Peru: hundreds of bolted routes across a wide grade range on grippy volcanic rock, at an altitude that makes every move harder than it looks. Archaeologists come for the rock art, paintings in ochre and white in the shelters and overhangs among the towers, attributed to pre-Inca occupation of the plateau, some of it several thousand years old. The two uses have sat awkwardly together, with concerns about bolting and traffic near painted panels, and the refuge that once served climbers has had a troubled history with ownership disputes and periods of closure. Access is through a community that charges a fee.

What you actually see

• The rock forest - ignimbrite towers, fins and mushroom caps across the plateau.
• The climbing - hundreds of bolted sport routes, the best-known crag in Peru.
• The rock art - ochre and white paintings in shelters among the towers.
• The altitude - 4,300 metres, which changes how every route feels.

When to go

May to September for dry rock. A day trip from Huaraz, or two days if climbing. Check the current state of the refuge before planning to stay.

Honest expectations

The refuge has closed and reopened repeatedly amid disputes - do not assume accommodation. Bitterly cold and windy outside midday. Climbing at 4,300 metres is far harder than the grades suggest. Painted panels are unprotected and easily damaged; keep away from them.

Nearby

Conococha and the Chiquián road are close; Huaraz is north.