Cordillera Huayhuash

The Huayhuash is much smaller than the Cordillera Blanca to the north but rises higher in relation to its base, a tight cluster of ice peaks around thirty kilometres long with Yerupajá, the second highest mountain in Peru, at its centre. The classic circuit walks right around it over a series of passes, most of them above 4,600 metres, camping beside glacier lakes. There are no roads inside the range and no lodges, so everything is carried, usually by donkey. Communities along the route charge for passage and camping. The scenery stays high alpine throughout: moraine, ice faces, turquoise lakes and grazing land, with condors over the passes.

What you actually see

• Yerupajá - the second highest peak in Peru, seen from several points on the circuit.
• The high passes - a sequence of crossings mostly above 4,600 metres, one after another.
• Glacier lakes - Carhuacocha, Viconga and others sitting directly under the ice faces.
• Siula Grande - the sheer wall on the eastern side of the range.

When to go

June to August is the reliable dry window, and even then afternoon cloud and night frost are normal. The wet season from December to March makes the passes dangerous and the camps miserable. Acclimatise around Huaraz for several days before starting. Most people go with an outfitter for donkeys and a cook, since unsupported walking means carrying well over a week of food.

Honest expectations

This is a serious walk: consecutive passes above 4,600 metres, nights below freezing at camp, and no way to shorten the route once you are inside the range. Altitude sickness ends trips regularly. Community fees add up over the circuit and are collected in cash. Weather can close in for days. Glacial retreat has changed several of the classic views.

Nearby

The Cordillera Blanca and Huaraz lie north, and Chiquián is the usual road head.