Bahuaja Sonene National Park

Bahuaja Sonene covers a little over a million hectares along the Bolivian border, adjoining Madidi on the far side to form one of the largest continuous protected areas in the tropics. Most of it is rainforest, but its distinguishing feature is the Pampas del Heath: a stretch of humid tropical savanna, the only one in Peru, a natural grassland with scattered palms that supports species found nowhere else in the country - maned wolf, marsh deer, giant anteater. The park is strictly protected with far less tourism than neighbouring Tambopata, and reaching the pampas means several days of river travel down the Heath with permits and a licensed operator. Giant otters, harpy eagles, jaguar and black caiman are all present. The name comes from the Ese'eja names for the two rivers. Trips are limited, expensive, and dependent on river conditions.

What you actually see

• The Pampas del Heath - the only humid tropical savanna in Peru.
• The savanna species - maned wolf, marsh deer and giant anteater at their Peruvian limit.
• The rainforest - over a million hectares adjoining Madidi in Bolivia.
• The rivers - the Tambopata and Heath as the only routes in.

When to go

May to October for river levels and drier ground. Three to six days minimum with a licensed operator and permits arranged in advance.

Honest expectations

Expensive and logistically demanding - this is expedition travel, not a lodge stay. Savanna mammals are scarce and mostly nocturnal; sightings are uncommon. Trips are cancelled by river levels. Camping, insects and heat throughout.

Nearby

Tambopata National Reserve adjoins it to the north; Puerto Maldonado is the staging point.