Ampay National Sanctuary

Ampay rises directly behind Abancay to a glaciated summit at 5,235 metres, and the sanctuary protects around 3,600 hectares on its flanks, created specifically for the intimpa - Podocarpus glomeratus, one of the very few native conifers of the Andes, a slow-growing tree that once covered much of this altitude band and now survives in scattered relict stands. The forest here is among the largest left. Trails climb from the control post above Abancay through the intimpa woods to two lagoons, Uspaqocha at about 3,200 metres and Angasqocha higher up, and continue towards the glacier for those willing to make a long day or camp. Birds are good in the forest and spectacled bear are present though rarely seen. The glacier on Ampay has retreated substantially, and the sanctuary sits immediately above a growing city, with pressure from firewood cutting and fire on the lower boundary.

What you actually see

• The intimpa forest - one of the last large stands of a native Andean conifer.
• The lagoons - Uspaqocha low in the forest, Angasqocha higher on the mountain.
• The peak - Ampay at 5,235 metres with its diminished glacier.
• The setting - a protected mountain forest directly above a city.

When to go

May to September for trail conditions. A day for the lower lagoon and forest; two days or a very long day to approach the glacier. Register at the control post.

Honest expectations

The climb from 2,400 metres at Abancay is steep and continuous - the upper lagoon and glacier are hard days. Weather turns quickly. Bear are present but effectively never seen. Fire damage is visible on the lower slopes.

Nearby

Abancay is below; the Apurímac canyon is east on the Cusco road.