Yaguaron Church

The church of San Buenaventura at Yaguarón was completed in 1772 by Franciscans working with Guarani craftsmen, and from outside it is a long low white building with a separate bell tower and a deep veranda on wooden posts, giving nothing away. Inside, the whole surface is worked: a carved and gilded retablo rising the full height behind the altar, side altars, a painted timber ceiling, carved pulpit and columns, all in wood and polychrome, with Guarani hands visible in the detail and the colour throughout. It is generally regarded as the finest surviving colonial interior in Paraguay, and it survived because the Franciscan missions were not expelled as the Jesuits were.

What to look for

• The retablo - the carved and gilded altarpiece filling the east end.
• The painted ceiling - the timber roof worked in colour.
• The carved pulpit - the detailed woodwork of the fittings.
• The plain exterior - the low white building and its veranda.

When to go

Year round; the church keeps daytime hours around services and afternoon closures are common, so arriving mid-morning is safest. It is an easy stop on the road south from Asuncion.

Before you go

The church closes for a long midday break and access follows service times. Photography inside may be restricted. Lighting is dim, which makes the interior hard to photograph. The visit takes under an hour.

Nearby

Paraguari lies southeast; Asuncion is northwest.