Alotau

Alotau sits on the northern shore at the head of Milne Bay, a small town of a few thousand on a hillside above a deep harbour, and it is the gateway to the islands of the province, the Trobriands, the D'Entrecasteaux and the Louisiades, with boats and flights running out from it. The Kenu and Kundu festival, held in early November, is what it is known for: canoes from across the province, from small outriggers to large sailing craft, race and parade in the bay while groups drum and dance on the shore, and the whole maritime culture of Milne Bay is on display for three days. Diving in the bay works reefs and wartime wrecks.

What you actually see

• The Kenu and Kundu festival - the November canoe races and dancing.
• The harbour - the deep bay and the boats working from it.
• Island connections - the departures to the Trobriands and other groups.
• Diving - the reefs and wrecks in Milne Bay.

When to go

Early November for the Kenu and Kundu festival, when accommodation must be booked months ahead; May to October otherwise for the calmest weather and diving. Flights connect through Port Moresby.

Honest expectations

Accommodation in Alotau is limited and fills entirely during the festival. Flights are few and subject to disruption. The town itself has little beyond the market and the harbour. Boats to the islands run on their own schedules.

Nearby

Samarai lies east at the bay mouth; the D'Entrecasteaux islands are north.