Corvina and Panamanian Seafood

Panama has coastline on two oceans and a fishing industry on both, and one fish dominates: corvina, a Pacific drum, firm-fleshed and mild, which appears cured in ceviche, fried whole, grilled, or in a garlic sauce on essentially every menu in the country. Around it sit the coastal specialities that differ by sea: on the Caribbean side, octopus and fish in coconut milk with a heavy hand of culantro and pepper, a Guna and Afro-Caribbean tradition; on the Pacific, fried whole snapper with patacones, twice-fried green plantain, and a bowl of ceviche to start.

What you actually see

• Corvina - the Pacific fish on every menu, cured, fried or grilled.
• Pescado en coco - Caribbean-side fish in coconut milk.
• Fried whole snapper - the Pacific coast standard, with patacones.
• Ceviche - lime-cured and sold by the cup at markets.

When to go

Year-round. Coastal fondas serve the day's landing at lunch and are done by mid-afternoon. Lobster has a closed season and should not appear on menus during it. Ceviche is best in the morning and early afternoon.

Honest expectations

Corvina is so ubiquitous that it becomes monotonous after a week. Overfishing in the Panamanian Pacific is a documented problem and some species on menus are under real pressure. Lobster closed seasons exist and are not always observed by restaurants. Ceviche hygiene varies at street counters.

Nearby

The Mercado de Mariscos in Panama City; coastal fondas on both seas.