The Ngäbe-Buglé

The Ngäbe and Buglé together are the largest indigenous population in Panama, well over two hundred thousand people, with a comarca established in 1997 covering a large block of the western highlands and both coasts. The nagua, the long bright dress with appliquéd geometric borders, is worn widely and is instantly recognisable across western Panama. The chácara, a bag netted from plant fibre and dyed with natural colours, is the other well-known craft, made by women and traded across the country. Communities are scattered and mostly agricultural, and the comarca includes some of the poorest districts in Panama.

History

From 1972 the Panamanian state was required to set up comarcas, regions where indigenous peoples hold the land and run much of their own administration. The Ngäbe-Buglé comarca was created in 1997 from lands of Bocas del Toro, Chiriquí and Veraguas, the largest and most populous of the country's six comarcas, with its capital at Buäbiti, Llano Tugrí in Spanish (Wikipedia, Ngäbe-Buglé Comarca).

What to look for

• The nagua - the long appliquéd dress worn across western Panama.
• Chácara bags - netted from plant fibre and naturally dyed.
• The balsería - a traditional contest of throwing balsa sticks.
• Community craft sales - along the roads through the comarca.

When to go

December to April is the dry season and the roads passable. Visits should be arranged through community organisations rather than turning up. Craft is sold along the roads and at markets in David and Chiriquí Grande.

Good to know

The comarca is not a tourist destination and there is very little infrastructure for visitors; it is a place people live, several of its districts among the poorest in the country. Arriving to photograph people is not welcome. Craft bought directly from makers along the road is worth more to them than anything bought in a city shop.

Nearby

The comarca borders Chiriquí, Bocas del Toro and Veraguas.

Key facts