Isla Escudo de Veraguas

Escudo de Veraguas lies about seventeen kilometres off the Caribbean coast and separated from the mainland around nine thousand years ago, long enough for its animals to change: the pygmy three-toed sloth evolved here, smaller than its mainland relative, living almost entirely in the red mangroves around the shore, and it exists nowhere else on earth. Population estimates have ranged from a few hundred down to under a hundred, which puts it among the most endangered mammals anywhere. The island is part of the Ngäbe-Buglé comarca and is used seasonally by fishing families. Access is difficult, occasional and should be arranged through the comarca.

History

Escudo de Veraguas is traditionally held to be the birthplace of the Ngöbe-Buglé people. The island, only 4.3 square kilometres, was largely uninhabited until 1995, when Ngöbe-Buglé fishermen from the coast began using it as a fishing base and later settled; by 2012 about 120 fishermen and their families lived there (Wikipedia, Isla Escudo de Veraguas).

What you'll find

• The pygmy sloth - found only here, in the shoreline mangroves.
• The mangrove fringe - the entire habitat of the species.
• The isolation - nine thousand years separated from the mainland.
• The Ngäbe fishing camps - seasonal use of the island.

When to go

February to April and September to October offer the calmest crossings, which matter because the trip is long and exposed. Visits are infrequent and must be arranged with the comarca authorities rather than booked as a tour.

Good to know

This is not a tourist destination and should not be treated as one: the sloth population is tiny and disturbance is a real threat, there is a documented history of animals being taken for the illegal pet trade, and access is controlled by the Ngäbe-Buglé for good reason. The crossing is long and rough. Go only through a properly arranged and permitted trip, or not at all.

Nearby

Bocas del Toro is to the west; the Ngäbe-Buglé mainland coast is closest.

Key facts