Isla Grande

Isla Grande sits a few hundred metres off the Caribbean coast east of Portobelo, a village island of a few hundred people, almost entirely Afro-Panamanian and descended from the communities of the colonial coast. It is one of the strongholds of congo culture, the tradition of drumming, dance and satirical theatre that grew out of the resistance of escaped enslaved people and which UNESCO recognised in 2018; carnival here is congo carnival, quite different from the version in the interior. A lighthouse on the island's high point was built by the French during their attempt at the canal. The water is calm and the reef modest but pleasant.

What you actually see

• Congo carnival - the island's distinctive carnival tradition.
• The French lighthouse - built during the failed canal attempt.
• The village - Afro-Panamanian, a few hundred people, no cars.
• The beaches and reef - small and sheltered on the southern side.

When to go

December to April is the drier season on this coast, which is wet by Panamanian standards year-round. Carnival in February is the island's biggest event. Weekends bring visitors from Panama City; weekdays are very quiet.

Honest expectations

The island is small and facilities are basic, with limited accommodation and food. The beaches are small and the reef modest. Weekends can be loud with sound systems from the mainland crowd. Sandflies are present. The Caribbean coast here is genuinely wet.

Nearby

Portobelo is 20 minutes west; Panama City is two hours south.