Bayano Caves

A river runs underground through a limestone ridge near Lake Bayano east of the capital, and the visit means wading and sometimes swimming through the passages with head torches, past bat colonies hanging from the roof and rock formations shaped by the water. The trip involves a boat crossing of the reservoir and a walk in. It is a genuine caving trip rather than a lit walkway and clothes get soaked.

Background

Three caves make up the group, on the south side of Lago Bayano in Panamá Province. They first appeared on a map drawn in 1960. The first is the largest, approximately two kilometers long, and the Río Seco flows through it, so boats can travel part of the way in. There is no lighting inside. The second and third caves are harder to reach and involve crawling. Visitors must wear a hard hat and a life jacket and carry a stick for the rocky floor. In November 2021 heavy rain flash-flooded the Río Seco and trapped 16 tourists in the caves, and 3 were found dead. Many more caves around the lake remain undocumented.

Source: Wikipedia, "Bayano Caves"

What's there

• The river passages - underground channels waded through with head torches.
• The bat colonies - the roosts hanging in the roof of the caves.
• The lake crossing - the boat run across the Bayano reservoir to the start.
• The formations - the rock shapes cut by the water through the ridge.

When to go

December to April is the dry season and the only safe window. Rain raises the underground river dangerously. Trips run from the capital as day excursions.

Practical notes

The caves flood after rain and trips are cancelled without much notice. This is a wet, muddy scramble in the dark, not a walkway visit. Guides are mandatory and going alone would be reckless.

Nearby

Lake Bayano is at the start, and Panama City is west.

Key facts