Moskstraumen

Moskstraumen forms in the strait between Moskenesoya and Vaeroy, where tides push enormous volumes of water between the Vestfjord and the open Norwegian Sea over an uneven seabed, producing a system of powerful currents, eddies and standing waves that can reach ten knots. It is one of the strongest tidal currents on Earth and, unlike most, it occurs in open sea rather than a narrow channel. Medieval writers described it, Olaus Magnus mapped it in 1539, and it became the maelstrom of Edgar Allan Poe and Jules Verne, considerably exaggerated in the process: it does not swallow ships whole. Boat trips run out from the Lofoten villages when conditions allow, timed to the tide.

What you actually see

• The current lines - visible boils, eddies and standing waves on open water.
• The tidal timing - the effect building and easing with the tide cycle.
• The seabird activity - birds feeding where the current concentrates fish.
• The Lofoten wall - the mountains of Moskenesoya from the sea.

When to go

May to September, when boat operators run; the effect is strongest around spring tides, which operators plan for. Calm days with a strong tide give the clearest view, since rough seas hide the current in ordinary waves.

Honest expectations

The whirlpools of legend do not exist in that form, and in moderate conditions the current can look like nothing more than disturbed water. Trips are cancelled frequently in wind. Open-sea RIB rides are cold, wet and rough, and unsuitable for anyone prone to seasickness.

Nearby

Reine, Å and the Lofoten fishing villages are on the near shore; Vaeroy lies across the strait.