Bida

Bida is the principal town of the Nupe and the seat of their emir, and its crafts are organised into hereditary guilds occupying particular quarters of the town: brass workers beating and casting trays, bowls and vessels; glass workers who make beads and bangles in a tradition of furnace glass that is now rare in West Africa, working recycled glass in small kilns; and weavers and raffia workers. Workshops can be visited and the processes watched, with pieces bought at source. The emir's palace stands in the town. The glass tradition in particular has declined sharply, with only a handful of families still practising, so what is seen depends on who is working.

What you actually see

• Brass workshops - the beating and casting of trays and vessels.
• Glass bead making - the small furnaces working recycled glass.
• Raffia and weaving - the other guild crafts of the town.
• The emir's palace - the Nupe court compound.

When to go

November to March for the weather; the harmattan brings dust but bearable heat. Weekdays are when the workshops are active. Fridays and holidays see less work.

Honest expectations

The glass tradition is nearly extinct and only a few workshops still fire. Visits are informal and fees negotiated. Selling pressure at the workshops is strong. There is no visitor infrastructure in the town.

Nearby

Minna lies northeast; the Niger river is south.