Kapiti Island

Kapiti has been a reserve since 1897, which makes it one of the earliest island sanctuaries anywhere, and the eradication of possums and then rats by 1996 turned it into one of the most successful. The forest is loud: little spotted kiwi survive here in the largest population anywhere - the species is extinct on the mainland - along with takahe, kokako, hihi, saddleback, kaka and weka that will investigate your lunch with some determination. Two landing points serve different plans. Rangatira gives access to the summit track, a climb of about 520 metres over two to three hours return, with the whole coast and the South Island in view from the top. The north end has gentler loops. Numbers are capped daily and every visitor needs a permit booked in advance plus a licensed operator; bags are checked for rodents and seeds before boarding. Overnight stays on the north end are the way to hear kiwi.

What you actually see

• Little spotted kiwi - the largest population, extinct on the mainland.
• The summit track - 520 metres up for the coast and Cook Strait.
• Weka and kaka - bold, close and interested in food.
• The 1897 reserve - one of the oldest of its kind anywhere.

When to go

October to April. Book the permit and boat well ahead - daily numbers are capped and summer fills. Crossings are cancelled in rough weather.

Honest expectations

You cannot simply turn up: permit plus licensed operator, booked in advance. Bag checks are compulsory. The summit climb is steep. Kiwi are nocturnal, so day visitors do not see them.

Nearby

Paraparaumu and the Kapiti Coast are on the mainland; the Escarpment Track is south.