Hanmer Springs

The springs were known to Maori and were being used by settlers by the 1860s; a government sanatorium followed, and the town grew around the water. The modern complex has around twenty pools of varying temperature - open-air rock pools, sulphur pools, freshwater pools, a lazy river, hydroslides and private tubs - set among mature trees, and the setting is what distinguishes it from a municipal pool: mountains on three sides and, in winter, snow on the surrounding tops while you sit in warm water. Around the village are extensive exotic forest plantations with walking and mountain-bike trails, a golf course, and access to Molesworth Station in summer. It is very much a resort town and prices reflect that. Weekends and school holidays are crowded enough that the pools lose most of their calm.

History

The Māori name means "where the ashes of Tamatea's fire lay", after the captain of the Tākitimu canoe. In April 1859 the Lyttelton Times printed William Jones's report of seven circular pools, warm to almost boiling, the Nelson Provincial Government made a reserve of 1,040 hectares around them in 1860, and building of a bath house began in January 1884 (Wikipedia, Hanmer Springs).

What to look for

• The pool complex - around twenty pools, sulphur and freshwater, open air.
• The mountain setting - snow on the tops in winter while you soak.
• The forest trails - walking and biking in the plantations around town.
• The village - built entirely around the springs.

When to go

Any season; winter is the classic time. Avoid weekends and school holidays if you want space in the pools. Book accommodation ahead - the village fills.

Good to know

Crowded at peak times, and the pools are chlorinated public pools rather than a wild spring. Prices are resort prices. The drive from Christchurch is two hours each way for a day trip.

Nearby

Molesworth Station opens in summer; Lewis Pass is west.

Key facts