Portuguese Synagogue

The Esnoga was built between 1671 and 1675 for the Portuguese-Jewish community of Amsterdam - Sephardim who had left Iberia after the expulsions and forced conversions and found in the Dutch Republic a place where they could practise openly - and when it opened it was the largest synagogue in the world. It has never been modernised: the hall is lit by more than a thousand candles in brass chandeliers, with no electric light installed in it, and the floor is covered in fine sand in the old Dutch manner, to absorb moisture and muffle footsteps. The building survived the war physically intact. Around it are the community's treasures and the Ets Haim library, founded in 1616 and the oldest functioning Jewish library in the world, on the UNESCO Memory of the World register. It is a working synagogue and part of the Jewish Cultural Quarter ticket.

What you actually see

• A thousand candles - the hall lit without electricity, as built in 1675.
• A sand floor - fine sand laid to absorb damp and muffle footsteps.
• Ets Haim - the oldest working Jewish library in the world, founded 1616.
• The largest synagogue of its day - when it opened, unmatched anywhere.

When to go

All year. Two hours.

Honest expectations

Closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays. Head covering expected for men. Candlelit evening openings are limited and book up. The library is viewed rather than used.

Nearby

The Jewish Historical Museum and Hollandsche Schouwburg are close.