Bourtange

Bourtange sits in the far east of Groningen, on what used to be an impassable peat bog with one dry route running through it, and the fort was built to sit on that route. It later lost its purpose, was dismantled and became an ordinary village, and from the 1960s onward the whole thing was reconstructed: star-shaped earth bastions, concentric moats, timber bridges, gates, magazines and a small central square with houses around it. People still live there, which stops it feeling entirely like a film set, though only just. The plan makes sense from the ramparts, where the geometry of points and ditches becomes obvious in a way it never is at ground level.

What you actually see

• The star plan - bastions, ravelins and moats laid out in the geometry of eighteenth century fortification.
• The gates and bridges - timber crossings over the water into the inner village.
• The central square - the small green with houses and workshops around it.
• The ramparts walk - the circuit on top of the earthworks, which is where the layout reads properly.

When to go

Between April and October, when the museum buildings, workshops and cafes are open and the earthworks are dry underfoot. Weekends bring costumed events that some visitors enjoy and others plan around. Out of season most doors are shut, though the ramparts stay walkable and the place is at its quietest and bleakest.

Honest expectations

Almost everything you see is reconstruction, and the finish can feel new rather than old. It is a long drive from anywhere and public transport is slow and infrequent. On peak weekends the small village fills quickly and parking backs up. Historical staging is heavy in summer, which suits families and irritates people who came for quiet.

Nearby

The Westerwolde countryside and its walking routes, with the German border a few kilometres east.