Tangier Medina

Tangier's medina runs up a hill from the port to the kasbah at the top, and it is smaller and steeper than the great inland medinas, with more sea in it - lanes end at gates that open onto the strait. Its character comes from the international zone: from 1923 to 1956 Tangier was administered jointly by several European powers with no single sovereign, which made it a free port with lax regulation and drew smugglers, currency dealers, spies, and a literary and artistic population - Paul Bowles, Burroughs, Genet, Matisse before them - whose traces are in the Petit Socco cafes, the old legation buildings and the hotels. The American Legation, in a house given to the United States in 1821, is now a museum and is the only US national historic landmark on foreign soil. The Kasbah museum occupies the old sultan's palace at the summit.

What you actually see

• A steep sea-facing medina - lanes ending at gates that open onto the strait.
• The international zone - traces of the 1923 to 1956 joint administration in cafes and legations.
• The American Legation - a house given in 1821, the only US landmark abroad.
• The Kasbah museum - the old sultan's palace at the top of the hill.

When to go

Spring and autumn. Half a day, walking uphill from the port.

Honest expectations

The medina is steep throughout and hard going in heat. Faux guides at the entrances are persistent and should be declined firmly and politely. The literary Tangier is largely gone; what remains are buildings and plaques. Some lanes are run-down.

Nearby

The Grand Socco is at the top edge; the port is below.