Tamraght

Tamraght sits in a valley of banana plantations that comes down to the sea twelve kilometres north of Agadir, and over the past two decades it has turned from a farming village into one of the two centres of Moroccan surf tourism, along with Taghazout up the road - surf camps, hostels, yoga retreats, cafes and board hire, with a population of instructors and long-stay visitors that has changed the village substantially. The beach in front, Crocodile, is a beach break that works for learners; the reason people stay here rather than at Taghazout is that it is quieter and cheaper, with the serious right-hand points - Anchor Point, Killer Point, Boilers - a short drive north. The Atlantic here is cold and wetsuits are worn year round. Winter, from September to April, is the swell season. The banana groves are still worked and the fruit is sold at the roadside.

What you actually see

• A converted farming village - banana groves turned surf economy in two decades.
• A learners' beach break - Crocodile in front, with the serious points a drive north.
• Camps and hostels - the cheaper, quieter alternative to Taghazout.
• Roadside bananas - the groves still worked and the fruit sold on the coast road.

When to go

September to April for swell. Several days.

Honest expectations

The Atlantic is cold and a wetsuit is needed year round. Summer has little swell. The village has changed fast and the development is uneven. Surf schools vary widely - check qualifications.

Nearby

Taghazout is north; Agadir is south along the coast.