Talaa Kebira

The Talaa Kebira, the great climb, runs from Bab Boujloud down to the area around the Quaraouiyine and it is the spine of the medina - over a kilometre of continuous street, narrow, roofed in stretches with reed and slat, and lined the whole way with workshops and shops that change as you descend: food and cafes at the top, then the Bou Inania madrasa a few minutes in, the water clock opposite it, then leather, then metal, then the henna souk, then spices, then the quarters around the mosque. Mules and handcarts use it constantly and the shout of balak means one is coming behind you and you should get against the wall. Walking down it is the standard first thing to do in Fes and it takes as long as you let it. The parallel Talaa Seghira, the small climb, runs beside it and rejoins at the bottom, and is quieter.

History

The Tala'a Kebira, the great climb, has long been the main souk street of Fes el-Bali, running roughly east from the gates of Bab Bou Jeloud and Bab Mahrouk to the al-Attarine Madrasa near the Qarawiyyin. As in many medieval Islamic cities, the main souk streets ran from the city gates to the great mosque and held most of the merchants' inns, the foundouks, while the lanes off them led only to residential quarters; the parallel Tala'a Seghira runs from Bab Bou Jeloud and rejoins it at Ain Allou, and though it is one of the broadest and straightest streets of the medina, it still winds to follow the gentlest slope of the valley (Wikipedia, Tala'a Kebira).

Highlights

• A kilometre of continuous trade - the mix changing steadily as the street descends.
• The Bou Inania madrasa - a few minutes down, with the water clock opposite it.
• Mules and handcarts - the medina's transport, with balak as the warning shout.
• A parallel quieter street - the Talaa Seghira running alongside and rejoining below.

When to go

October to April; mornings before the heat and the crowds. Half a day.

Good to know

Mules and carts have right of way and will not stop - listen for balak. Touting along the upper section is persistent. It is downhill going in and uphill coming back. The street is slippery in rain.

Nearby

Bab Boujloud is at the top; the Quaraouiyine and Seffarine are at the bottom.

Key facts