Safi Sardine Tradition

The Atlantic off Morocco carries one of the largest sardine stocks in the world, sustained by the Canary upwelling that brings cold nutrient-rich water to the surface, and Safi built an industry on it - the port was for decades described as the world's leading sardine port and the canneries behind it employed a large part of the town, exporting across Europe and Africa. That industry has shifted and Agadir and Laayoune now land more, but Safi still works and the smell of fish and canning is part of the town. For a visitor the point is the eating: grill stalls on the quay and in the streets behind take sardines from the morning's landing, salt them, put them straight on charcoal and serve them with bread, cumin and a wedge of lemon for a very small sum, which is one of the best cheap meals in Morocco. Chermoula-marinated and stuffed sardines are the other local preparations.

What you actually see

• An upwelling fishery - cold nutrient-rich water supporting one of the world's great sardine stocks.
• A canning town - an industry that employed much of Safi and exported widely.
• Quay grills - the morning's catch salted and put straight on charcoal.
• Chermoula and stuffed - the other local preparations alongside the plain grill.

When to go

All year; late morning after the landing. Two hours.

Honest expectations

The port area smells strongly of fish and canning. Grill stall hygiene varies - choose one that is busy. Safi is an industrial town and unattractive in stretches. Landings vary with the weather.

Nearby

The Safi medina and pottery hill are above the port; Dar el-Bahar is on the shore.