Kasbah of the Udayas, Rabat

The Kasbah of the Udayas crowns the cliff where the Bou Regreg river meets the Atlantic in Rabat, Morocco's relaxed and often overlooked capital, and it is part of the city's World Heritage listing. Built as a fortified citadel, its massive walls are entered through a grand almohad gateway, and inside is a quiet quarter of narrow lanes where the houses are washed blue and white, tumbling down towards the sea in a way that recalls a Greek island as much as a Moroccan town. At its heart are the tranquil Andalusian Gardens and a café on the ramparts looking out over the river to the white town of Salé and along the Atlantic shore. Rabat as a whole is greener, calmer and less frenetic than Fès or Marrakech, and the kasbah, with the nearby Hassan Tower and the royal mausoleum, is its most atmospheric corner.

What you actually see

• The blue-and-white lanes - the painted alleys of the old fortified quarter.
• The Almohad gateway - the grand carved stone gate into the kasbah.
• The Andalusian Gardens - the calm walled garden within the walls.
• The ramparts and café - the view over the river mouth to Salé and the ocean.

When to go

Spring and autumn are ideal; the Atlantic keeps Rabat milder than the interior in summer, though it can be humid. Late afternoon light on the blue-and-white lanes and the river view is lovely. The kasbah is small and easily combined with Rabat's other monuments in a day.

Honest expectations

The kasbah is compact and a visit is a couple of hours, so it works best combined with Rabat's Hassan Tower, mausoleum and medina to fill a day. It is a lived-in residential quarter, so respect residents' privacy when photographing the painted lanes. Unofficial guides may attach themselves at the gate. Rabat sees fewer tourists than the imperial rivals, which for many is exactly the appeal.

Nearby

The Hassan Tower and Mausoleum of Mohammed V are across the city; the Chellah necropolis and the beaches are close.