Jebel Zagora

Jebel Zagora is the table-topped hill immediately south of the town, about 970 metres, and the walk or drive up it is the standard thing to do at sunset. On the summit are the remains of a fortification generally dated to the Almoravid period, eleventh or twelfth century - low walls and cisterns rather than a standing building, but placed where you would expect: commanding the Draa valley, which was the route north from the Sahara. What you go for is the view, and it is a good one: the palmeraie running as a green line along the river both ways, ochre hills, and the desert flats beyond. The much-photographed sign in the town below reading Timbuktu 52 days by camel is a modern replacement of an older one and the journey it describes was real. Sunrise is quieter than sunset and the light on the palms is better.

What you actually see

• Almoravid ruins - low walls and cisterns on the summit commanding the Draa route.
• The palm line - the green ribbon along the river running both ways below.
• The Timbuktu sign - a modern replacement in the town, describing a real journey.
• A short ascent - drivable most of the way, then a walk to the top.

When to go

October to April; sunrise for the better light. Two to three hours.

Honest expectations

The ruins are foundations rather than a building - the view is the reason to climb. The track is rough in its upper section. Summer heat makes the walk unwise. Sunset brings vehicles and crowds to a small summit.

Nearby

Zagora is below; Tinfou dunes and M'Hamid are south down the valley.