Cetinje

Cetinje was the capital of Montenegro when the country was a small mountain principality holding out against much larger neighbours, and the town still carries that history at walking scale. The monastery holds relics that draw pilgrims, including a hand of John the Baptist; the Biljarda, King Nikola's residence, is named after the billiard table hauled up the mountain by his predecessor; and one long street is lined with the former embassies of Russia, Britain, France and others, grand buildings in a town of a few thousand people. The setting is a green karst bowl beneath Mount Lovcen, and the light in autumn is superb.

What you actually see

• Cetinje Monastery - the pilgrimage site and its relics.
• King Nikola's palace museum - the royal residence and its collections.
• The embassy street - former legations from Montenegro's independent years.
• Lovcen and Njegos mausoleum - the mountain and tomb above the town.

When to go

Spring through autumn is the comfortable window; the town sits high enough for cold, snowy winters. Combining Cetinje with the drive up Lovcen makes the strongest day, and clear autumn days give enormous views from the mausoleum.

Honest expectations

Cetinje is quiet to the point of sleepy and some museums keep short or seasonal hours - check before making a special trip. The monastery has a strict dress code and the relics are shown in a small chapel with limited access. Many visitors treat it as a stop between the coast and Lovcen rather than a stay, which is reasonable given the limited accommodation.

Nearby

Lovcen National Park and the Njegos mausoleum, Kotor down the serpentine road and Lake Skadar.