Olgii

Olgii is the provincial capital of Bayan-Olgii, the only province in Mongolia with a Kazakh majority, and the difference is immediate: mosques rather than monasteries, Kazakh spoken alongside Mongolian, embroidered wall hangings and decorated felt in the gers, and a cuisine that leans on boiled meat and fried dough. The bazaar is the centre of things, selling everything from saddles to solar panels, and the town's craft workshops produce the embroidered textiles the region is known for. It is the base for everything in western Mongolia: Tavan Bogd, the Altai lakes, the petroglyph valleys and the eagle hunters who live in the surrounding districts. The Golden Eagle Festival each October is held just outside town. Flights from Ulaanbaatar take a few hours and save several days of driving.

What you actually see

• The bazaar - the town's trading centre, busy and comprehensive.
• Kazakh culture - mosques, language, embroidery and food.
• Craft workshops - embroidered textiles and felt work.
• The eagle hunters - families in the surrounding districts who still hunt with birds.

When to go

June to September for travel in the mountains; early October for the Golden Eagle Festival, when the town fills and prices rise. Winter is severe, with temperatures far below freezing for months.

Honest expectations

The town is plain and dusty, and its interest is as a base and a cultural contrast rather than a sight. Accommodation is basic guesthouses and a few hotels. Flights are weather-dependent and can be cancelled. Everything in the province needs a hired vehicle and driver.

Nearby

Tavan Bogd and the Altai lakes lie west; the petroglyph valleys are north.